A nearshore wave breaking model

Li Shaowu, Wang Shangyi, Tomoya Shibayama

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

4 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

A wave breaking model is proposed on the basis of turbulent energy equation and the relationship of energy dissipation due to wave breaking in the surf zone. The model is established by introducing turbulent dissipation terms into the Boussinesq equations and involves the breaking process of individual wave. The model is verified by experiment data in terms of wave height and mean surface elevation. Good agreements are obtained.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)121-132
Number of pages12
JournalActa Oceanologica Sinica
Volume17
Issue number1
Publication statusPublished - 1998
Externally publishedYes

Fingerprint

wave breaking
Boussinesq equation
surf zone
energy
wave height
energy dissipation
dissipation
experiment

Keywords

  • Boussinesq equations
  • Eddy viscous coefficient
  • Wave breaking

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Aquatic Science
  • Oceanography

Cite this

Shaowu, L., Shangyi, W., & Shibayama, T. (1998). A nearshore wave breaking model. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 17(1), 121-132.

A nearshore wave breaking model. / Shaowu, Li; Shangyi, Wang; Shibayama, Tomoya.

In: Acta Oceanologica Sinica, Vol. 17, No. 1, 1998, p. 121-132.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

Shaowu, L, Shangyi, W & Shibayama, T 1998, 'A nearshore wave breaking model', Acta Oceanologica Sinica, vol. 17, no. 1, pp. 121-132.
Shaowu, Li ; Shangyi, Wang ; Shibayama, Tomoya. / A nearshore wave breaking model. In: Acta Oceanologica Sinica. 1998 ; Vol. 17, No. 1. pp. 121-132.
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