Abstract
A wave breaking model is proposed on the basis of turbulent energy equation and the relationship of energy dissipation due to wave breaking in the surf zone. The model is established by introducing turbulent dissipation terms into the Boussinesq equations and involves the breaking process of individual wave. The model is verified by experiment data in terms of wave height and mean surface elevation. Good agreements are obtained.
| Original language | English |
|---|---|
| Pages (from-to) | 121-132 |
| Number of pages | 12 |
| Journal | Acta Oceanologica Sinica |
| Volume | 17 |
| Issue number | 1 |
| Publication status | Published - 1998 |
| Externally published | Yes |
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Keywords
- Boussinesq equations
- Eddy viscous coefficient
- Wave breaking
ASJC Scopus subject areas
- Aquatic Science
- Oceanography
Cite this
A nearshore wave breaking model. / Shaowu, Li; Shangyi, Wang; Shibayama, Tomoya.
In: Acta Oceanologica Sinica, Vol. 17, No. 1, 1998, p. 121-132.Research output: Contribution to journal › Article
}
TY - JOUR
T1 - A nearshore wave breaking model
AU - Shaowu, Li
AU - Shangyi, Wang
AU - Shibayama, Tomoya
PY - 1998
Y1 - 1998
N2 - A wave breaking model is proposed on the basis of turbulent energy equation and the relationship of energy dissipation due to wave breaking in the surf zone. The model is established by introducing turbulent dissipation terms into the Boussinesq equations and involves the breaking process of individual wave. The model is verified by experiment data in terms of wave height and mean surface elevation. Good agreements are obtained.
AB - A wave breaking model is proposed on the basis of turbulent energy equation and the relationship of energy dissipation due to wave breaking in the surf zone. The model is established by introducing turbulent dissipation terms into the Boussinesq equations and involves the breaking process of individual wave. The model is verified by experiment data in terms of wave height and mean surface elevation. Good agreements are obtained.
KW - Boussinesq equations
KW - Eddy viscous coefficient
KW - Wave breaking
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=0031847111&partnerID=8YFLogxK
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/citedby.url?scp=0031847111&partnerID=8YFLogxK
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:0031847111
VL - 17
SP - 121
EP - 132
JO - Acta Oceanologica Sinica
JF - Acta Oceanologica Sinica
SN - 0253-505X
IS - 1
ER -