A semi-empirical formula for calculating the breaking depth of plunging waves

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

Abstract

A new semi-empirical formula for calculating the breaking depth of plunging breakers is proposed in this study. The shallow water equation is used as the governing equation, and the wave front slope, which is one of the key parameters that governs the breaking criterion, is obtained from it analytically. The analytical formula was then modified based on both physical considerations and historical laboratory data. The accuracy of the resulting semi-empirical formula was examined using two sets of new laboratory data - including laboratory experiments performed by the authors - in order to verify its applicability. The results indicate that the proposed new formula is more accurate than existing formulas.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)199-209
Number of pages11
JournalCoastal Engineering Journal
Volume61
Issue number2
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 2019 Apr 3

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Shallow Water Equations
Wave Front
Governing equation
Slope
Water
Verify
Experiments
Experiment

Keywords

  • breaking depth
  • laboratory experiment
  • plunging breaker
  • semi-empirical formula
  • shallow water equation
  • Wave breaking

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Civil and Structural Engineering
  • Modelling and Simulation
  • Ocean Engineering

Cite this

A semi-empirical formula for calculating the breaking depth of plunging waves. / Xie, Wenang; Shibayama, Tomoya; Esteban, Miguel.

In: Coastal Engineering Journal, Vol. 61, No. 2, 03.04.2019, p. 199-209.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

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