A wave breaking model is proposed on the basis of turbulent energy equation and the relationship of energy dissipation due to wave breaking in the surf zone. The model is established by introducing turbulent dissipation terms into the Boussinesq equations and involves the breaking process of individual wave. The model is verified by experiment data in terms of wave height and mean surface elevation. Good agreements are obtained.
|ジャーナル||Acta Oceanologica Sinica|
|出版ステータス||Published - 1998|
ASJC Scopus subject areas