A semi-empirical formula for calculating the breaking depth of plunging waves

研究成果: Article

抄録

A new semi-empirical formula for calculating the breaking depth of plunging breakers is proposed in this study. The shallow water equation is used as the governing equation, and the wave front slope, which is one of the key parameters that governs the breaking criterion, is obtained from it analytically. The analytical formula was then modified based on both physical considerations and historical laboratory data. The accuracy of the resulting semi-empirical formula was examined using two sets of new laboratory data - including laboratory experiments performed by the authors - in order to verify its applicability. The results indicate that the proposed new formula is more accurate than existing formulas.

元の言語English
ページ(範囲)199-209
ページ数11
ジャーナルCoastal Engineering Journal
61
発行部数2
DOI
出版物ステータスPublished - 2019 4 3

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Shallow Water Equations
Wave Front
Governing equation
Slope
Water
Verify
Experiments
Experiment

Keywords

    ASJC Scopus subject areas

    • Civil and Structural Engineering
    • Modelling and Simulation
    • Ocean Engineering

    これを引用

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    title = "A semi-empirical formula for calculating the breaking depth of plunging waves",
    abstract = "A new semi-empirical formula for calculating the breaking depth of plunging breakers is proposed in this study. The shallow water equation is used as the governing equation, and the wave front slope, which is one of the key parameters that governs the breaking criterion, is obtained from it analytically. The analytical formula was then modified based on both physical considerations and historical laboratory data. The accuracy of the resulting semi-empirical formula was examined using two sets of new laboratory data - including laboratory experiments performed by the authors - in order to verify its applicability. The results indicate that the proposed new formula is more accurate than existing formulas.",
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    author = "Wenang Xie and Tomoya Shibayama and Miguel Esteban",
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    T1 - A semi-empirical formula for calculating the breaking depth of plunging waves

    AU - Xie, Wenang

    AU - Shibayama, Tomoya

    AU - Esteban, Miguel

    PY - 2019/4/3

    Y1 - 2019/4/3

    N2 - A new semi-empirical formula for calculating the breaking depth of plunging breakers is proposed in this study. The shallow water equation is used as the governing equation, and the wave front slope, which is one of the key parameters that governs the breaking criterion, is obtained from it analytically. The analytical formula was then modified based on both physical considerations and historical laboratory data. The accuracy of the resulting semi-empirical formula was examined using two sets of new laboratory data - including laboratory experiments performed by the authors - in order to verify its applicability. The results indicate that the proposed new formula is more accurate than existing formulas.

    AB - A new semi-empirical formula for calculating the breaking depth of plunging breakers is proposed in this study. The shallow water equation is used as the governing equation, and the wave front slope, which is one of the key parameters that governs the breaking criterion, is obtained from it analytically. The analytical formula was then modified based on both physical considerations and historical laboratory data. The accuracy of the resulting semi-empirical formula was examined using two sets of new laboratory data - including laboratory experiments performed by the authors - in order to verify its applicability. The results indicate that the proposed new formula is more accurate than existing formulas.

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    KW - laboratory experiment

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    KW - shallow water equation

    KW - Wave breaking

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