抄録
A new semi-empirical formula for calculating the breaking depth of plunging breakers is proposed in this study. The shallow water equation is used as the governing equation, and the wave front slope, which is one of the key parameters that governs the breaking criterion, is obtained from it analytically. The analytical formula was then modified based on both physical considerations and historical laboratory data. The accuracy of the resulting semi-empirical formula was examined using two sets of new laboratory data - including laboratory experiments performed by the authors - in order to verify its applicability. The results indicate that the proposed new formula is more accurate than existing formulas.
| 元の言語 | English |
|---|---|
| ページ（範囲） | 199-209 |
| ページ数 | 11 |
| ジャーナル | Coastal Engineering Journal |
| 巻 | 61 |
| 発行部数 | 2 |
| DOI | |
| 出版物ステータス | Published - 2019 4 3 |
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ASJC Scopus subject areas
- Civil and Structural Engineering
- Modelling and Simulation
- Ocean Engineering
これを引用
A semi-empirical formula for calculating the breaking depth of plunging waves. / Xie, Wenang; Shibayama, Tomoya; Esteban, Miguel.
：: Coastal Engineering Journal, 巻 61, 番号 2, 03.04.2019, p. 199-209.研究成果: Article
}
TY - JOUR
T1 - A semi-empirical formula for calculating the breaking depth of plunging waves
AU - Xie, Wenang
AU - Shibayama, Tomoya
AU - Esteban, Miguel
PY - 2019/4/3
Y1 - 2019/4/3
N2 - A new semi-empirical formula for calculating the breaking depth of plunging breakers is proposed in this study. The shallow water equation is used as the governing equation, and the wave front slope, which is one of the key parameters that governs the breaking criterion, is obtained from it analytically. The analytical formula was then modified based on both physical considerations and historical laboratory data. The accuracy of the resulting semi-empirical formula was examined using two sets of new laboratory data - including laboratory experiments performed by the authors - in order to verify its applicability. The results indicate that the proposed new formula is more accurate than existing formulas.
AB - A new semi-empirical formula for calculating the breaking depth of plunging breakers is proposed in this study. The shallow water equation is used as the governing equation, and the wave front slope, which is one of the key parameters that governs the breaking criterion, is obtained from it analytically. The analytical formula was then modified based on both physical considerations and historical laboratory data. The accuracy of the resulting semi-empirical formula was examined using two sets of new laboratory data - including laboratory experiments performed by the authors - in order to verify its applicability. The results indicate that the proposed new formula is more accurate than existing formulas.
KW - breaking depth
KW - laboratory experiment
KW - plunging breaker
KW - semi-empirical formula
KW - shallow water equation
KW - Wave breaking
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=85065544583&partnerID=8YFLogxK
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/citedby.url?scp=85065544583&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.1080/21664250.2019.1579459
DO - 10.1080/21664250.2019.1579459
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:85065544583
VL - 61
SP - 199
EP - 209
JO - Coastal Engineering in Japan
JF - Coastal Engineering in Japan
SN - 0578-5634
IS - 2
ER -