Random wave modelling approach included in a beach deformation model

Ioan Nistor*, Tomoya Shibayama

*この研究の対応する著者

研究成果: Conference article査読

抄録

The paper presents the results of a study dealing with the inclusion of wave randomness into a beach deformation and a sand transport model developed for the regular wave input. The effect of wave irregularity is considered by employing the significant wave characteristics method and a joint distribution of wave heights and wave periods. The theoretical framework and the practical method for obtaining the joint distribution together with its application procedure are presented. The validity of the random wave approach modelling is verified by applying it for two different models: a time-averaged beach deformation model and a time-dependent sand transport model. The time-averaged model is capable of computing the beach deformation profiles while the time-dependent turbulent sand transport model is capable of computing the total sand transport rate over the entire surf zone. The simulation results for both numerical models are compared with laboratory data in order to verify, analyze and discuss the validity of the random wave approach as presented.

本文言語English
ページ(範囲)3008-3021
ページ数14
ジャーナルProceedings of the Coastal Engineering Conference
3
出版ステータスPublished - 1998
外部発表はい
イベントProceedings of the 1998 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE-98 - Copenhagen, Denmark
継続期間: 1998 6月 221998 6月 26

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • 海洋工学

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